mower rebuild cost

[Donn Hewes]

I wanted to share a recent receipt for a mower I worked on. To properly rebuild a mower the parts cost more than most folks might think. I will cut and paste and add a few more comments for clarification at the end. Obviously cut and paste from word – not so good!
RECEIPT March 11, 2016

Donn’s Mower Shop
3501 Hoxie Gorge – Freetown Rd.
Marathon, NY 13803
(607) 849-4442

Customer:

Count Part Price Total
1 Mower body – good condition 400.00 400.00
With inner shoe, push bar, inner shoe hinge, outer shoe
Timing bar, lift system, new seat, 4 ½ cutter bar
3 Stub Guards w/ bolt 5.50 16.50
7 Double guards – 218 w/ bolts 11.00 77.00
4 Wear plates 1.20 4.80
4 Hold downs – adj L600 6.50 26.00
1 Pitman stick (used) 40.00 40.00
1 Knife head cap 11.00 11.00
2 Knife head wear plate 6.00 12.00
1 Inner shoe sole 9.00 9.00
1 Outer shoe sole 11.00 11.00
1 Inner shoe ledger plate w/ bolts 8.00 8.00
1 Outer shoe ledger plate w/ bolts 5.00 5.00
1 5 foot knife (cut to 4 ½’) 80.00 80.00
1 Grassboard w/ spring, bolt 35.00 35.00
1 Dolly wheel 190.00 190.00
1 Shaft set up 150.00 150.00
1 Pitman shaft 22.00 22.00
1 whiffle tree (used) 5.00 5.00

TOTAL $1,102.30

Further clarification. There is not really any labor included in this bill. This mower was built as a group project. The only labor of mine included is about $100 out of the cost for a custom shaft set up. Some would point out that a dolly wheel is either not really needed, or possibly even detracts from the mower. I just happen to like them and found it an easy way to set shaft for a one horse mower. This could save $190. If you remove the cost of the shafts however, remember you will need a tongue, evener, and possibly a neck yoke. many folks would like to reuse the cutter bar parts found on the mower, and in a few cases this may be possible, but usually new knifes, hold downs, and wear plate are the best way to to start with a newly rebuilt mower. These parts would cost even more for a longer bar as this bar was assembled with a 4 1/2 foot bar.

I just wanted to share all this for folks considering buying or working on a mower. When you see a good rebuilt mower for $800 or $1000, don’t hesitate if this is the machine you need. Please feel free to ask questions about this mower if you like. Donn

ps. I used a good used pitman for $40, but a good new one would be $85. The cost of parts has been fairly stable for two or three years but I did notice a slight increase this spring. I try NOT to ship parts to folks, only because they can get them cheaper by buying from Master equipment as I have done, but I will gladly help folks fine the parts they need.

[Mark Cowdrey]

Thanks for sharing this Donn. I agree about the desirability of setting up with new guards, plates, hold-downs, knife. Reduces the chances of trouble cutting because of something being not quite right. I took the time and spent the money to do that with my McD #9 High Gear several years ago and see it as a good investment that resulted in (mostly) trouble free mowing.
Looking over your parts list I am not sure how pitman shaft differs from a pitman stick.
Also, what is the contact info for this Master equipment outfit?
I am getting close to decision on whether to re-build the Farmall A-22 I bought that I mentioned on another thread. It is a mid-mount mower that fits the “A” series tractors. Father Time marches on. The cutter bar parts and setup are very similar or identical to a McD #9.
Thanks,
Mark

[Jay]

Donn, ditto Mark’s comments. Thanks for sharing the list and cost of the many small (and possibly seemingly inconsequential) parts to a smoothly functioning mower. In my experience, when there is just a little wear in 2 places, that increases the draft (effort required to pull mower and run knife) by about 4 times – not just double as we might be inclined to think. So with 4 or 5 places with “just a little” wear, the draft increases tremendously. So when the mowing gets tough, the mower just plugs….

Mark, I believe everything from the 3 bar bolts (9/16″) out the bar is identical and can be moved from one mower to the other (#7 or 9 to 22A and vise versa).
As often seems to be the case, there are the parts and then the labour and knowledge to set things up correctly and small adjustments make such a difference. Jay

[Donn Hewes]

I wrote a nice reply earlier today, but I must have missed the “submit” button! Mark, let me know what you want before the 1 of April. Folks at Master Equipment are great. They don’t answer the phone but will call you back. 330-695-2603

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