Plug style neck yoke sources

[LongViewFarm]

The forecart rebuild is going well, and I am wanting to buy or build a plug style neck yoke for the team. I want to know what suppliers you have worked with and had a success or issues with. I’d either get the whole yoke or just the hardware.
Also, what do you know about a neck yoke that also replaces the jockey yokes? I think this might be a way to reduce tongue slap? Sam had one at WPC. It was one unit that stretched all the way across the front of the team.
Thanks for your advice.

[Livewater Farm]

I think what you are refering to is a sinle piece neck yolk it is the length of a three piece yolk over all with 4 eyes to hook you pole straps we use them on a pole that might be a little too short allowing more room for the horses from the evener

I know some folks that only use that type they hook it to the team befoer they move to the wagon or sled pole does not slap around as much or hit the knees
just different style s of doing the same thing
Bill

[Brad Johnson]

I use a plug style yoke exclusively for woods and fieldwork. It really works well and is super durable. I built my own based on Les Barden’s design and it is sweet. I was able to trim about 16″ off the pole so my turning radius is much reduced, and if the horses heads clear an obstacle the pole clears as well – no more hitting small stems with the end of the pole while turning. I can send you the design details if you want, and the total cost is about $75 if you have a welder (or even less if you have scrap metal around the shop). I think it is a far superior design to anything else I have used, including the standard three piece ring yoke or a one piece yoke.
-Brad

[Does’ Leap]

I have also used the plug yoke exclusively for the past 6 years or so. It is a great set-up. I have made a few modifications to Les’s design: (1) He suggested using 3/8 eye bolts. I wore through those after about 1.5 years and have gone with 1/2″ eye bolts instead. So far so good. (2) Original design calls for a 5/8 plug, I have gone to 3/4″ grade 8 steel. If you use grade 8, take care to keep it as cool as possible while welding it. (3) Instead of drilling through the steel receiver and into your wood on the end of the pole to receive the “plug” part of the yoke, I weld a short piece of 3/4″ pipe on the top of the receiver. This extends the life of the pole, is a more secure home for the yoke, and enables you to put a cotter pin on the end of your “plug” to prevent the yoke from slipping out while harnessing.

George

[Ed Thayer]

George,
Do you have any pictures of that arrangement for reference?

I would like to see it. I run a plug style yolk for my ride on cultivator. I had to make the neck yolk arrangement to fit the tool when I bought it.

But that is the only implement I use with a plug yolk.

Ed

[LongViewFarm]

Brad, It’s your set up I am modeling after.
I have a 2″ box aluminum pole I am using, and I plan to wedge 12-18″ of oak into it by cutting it so fit snug and rounding the corners to get it started. I plan to drill out the center of this oak to hammer in a 3/4″ ID pipe, into which a 3/4″ bolt will slide. I aim to get 8″ of bolt into the pole. Is this enough?
If you can send me the plans Brad I’d really appreciate it. I am picturing two eye bolts linked, one who’s bolt slides into pole and one who’ bolt passes through the yoke.
I’ve put up some pictures.
Thanks,
Jay

Attachments:

You must be logged in to view attached files.

[Mark Cowdrey]

I am also a plug yoke fan. I was able to shorten my pole about the same as Brad. I opted to use a pipe receiver welded on top of the pole bracket so I would not have to bore out the pole. The pipe protrudes so you can use a ring style neckyoke if you need to. I used chain links instead of eyebolts; seemed easier, and cheaper. Maybe not quite the same range of motion, but plenty.
Good Luck.
Mark

[Mark Cowdrey]

another try

[Mark Cowdrey]

screw it Jay, I’ll email them to you.
M

[LongViewFarm]

What length are you guys running from the front of the pole to your evener anchor?

[Brad Johnson]

Jay-
The total length of the plug bolt is much less than 8″, only 3.5 ” I think, but I will measure it for you. I have a paper copy of Les’ plans, what is your snail mail address?
-Brad

[Does’ Leap]

“George,
Do you have any pictures of that arrangement for reference?”

Hi Ed:

Pictures aren’t great but they show some of my modifications. One shows the beefier 1/2″ eye bolts. These are particularly important where you have two eyebolts are linked together as they get a lot of ware, but for an extra couple of bucks, I would add them to where your front side straps attach to the yoke as well.

The other picture shows my mower pole. I found that when I switched to a plug yoke on my mower, it brought my pole up too high and I was worried about oil distribution in the gear box. Stacking and welding pipe on top of the pole (pictured) brought the pole length down. Not elegant, but it worked. I have since purchased dollies for my two mowers and don’t need this set-up. Now I just have one 3/4″ pipe welded to the top of the steel pole cap. The only other change not pictured is beefing up to a 3/4″, grade-8 plug.

George

Attachments:

You must be logged in to view attached files.

[Does’ Leap]

Other picture…

[Mark Cowdrey]

Jay,
Pole length on my arch is 8’9-1/2: end of receiver for neck yoke plug to back of evener bolt. Remember all that the evener in this situation is+/- 30″ off the ground, so heel clipping is not an issue.
Mark

[Does’ Leap]

“I have a 2″ box aluminum pole I am using”

Jay, how do you like the pole? What is the wall thickness on your box aluminum and does it seem rugged? Originally I thought you were considering 3″.

Thanks.

George

[Author]

Posts