Wheel choices

[Andy Carson]

I want to make a two wheeled cart that I can use both for deliveries and in the field. I am probably going to make a “fancy bed” for deliveries and a “work bed” for the field, but want the wheel, axles, suspension, frame, etc. to be capable of both. I have laid out what I see as the advantages and disadvantages of three different wheel/tire types. I am guessing at some of this information (especially about the wooden wheels) so if anyone know more about this, please share. Also, please let me know if there are important factors or wheel options that I missed. A tall wheel is very attractive for a two wheeled cart, but other factors might outweight this consideration…

Pneumatic wheels
Advantages: lowest rolling resistance, tough, compatable with a large variety of surfaces, provide some suspension, compatable with modern efficient axles and bearings, cheap
Disadvantages: Short, possibility of flats, not pretty (might look “rigged up”)

Wooden wheels
Advantages: Can be tall, very pretty, some use modern efficient bearings, narrow profile in road types can reduce rolling resistance, no flats
Disadvantages: Road types appear like they would be weak in the field (especially to side loads or shock loads), Cannon or field types seem very heavy with increased rolling resistance, older wheels often use inefficient bearings, suspension seems neccessary on pavement, tall wheels are very expensive

Spoked steel wheels:
Advantages: Can be tall, tough, interesting looking, are compatable with modern efficient axles, bearings, and springs, no flats, bolting on tire tread provides traction on a variety of surfaces
Disadvantages: Not really “pretty” (although doesn’t look “rigged-up”), higher rolling resistance, probably requires suspension for road use, naked steel probably not a good idea on pavement

Again, please educate me as to anything on this chart that appears wrong, I have little experience with wooden wheels especially.

[near horse]

Metal wheels on pavement are loud as well.

[mitchmaine]

i was out to pioneer once, and they were set out in the dooryard expanding rubber tires with comealongs around a circular frame to fit over their factory made steel wheels. the fit was good and the noise and “feel” issues over tar roads were taken care of. quite a sight to behold. not the prettiest wheels you ever saw but very effective.

mitch

[jac]

You can get hard rubber “tyres” on wooden wheels too. They look ok. Doug Hanson does them ..
John

[goodcompanion]

Another type still is spoked steel wheels with pneumatic tires. Like a Garden Way cart. Cheap. The largest I could find was 26″, though.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200331764_200331764

The wooden wheels made at Witmer’s do not change in price according to diameter, only by thickness of spokes and felloes, or in other words, by width and general heaviness. I think there may be a surcharge for diameters over 50″? They can make up a rock-solid wheel that is plenty tall and thick for your cart, with a steel or rubber tire for about $150 each. For my part I am very happy with the wheels I ordered from them. They fit onto the old-style axles with grease and spin with very little resistance.

[Andy Carson]

Thanks Erik, Maybe I’m not giving the wooden wheels a fair shake and $150 is really not that bad at all for a nice set of wheels that will do what I want. I have somehow thought of wooden wheels as less suitable for field work, maybe not… I would still prefer ones that can fit onto modern axles and bearings, but maybe that is an unreasonable bias too… I think I’ll visit the factory, take a look and some advice. They ought to know. Part of my new policy of “getting out more”.

[goodcompanion]

@Countymouse 18612 wrote:

Thanks Erik, Maybe I’m not giving the wooden wheels a fair shake and $150 is really not that bad at all for a nice set of wheels that will do what I want. I have somehow thought of wooden wheels as less suitable for field work, maybe not… I would still prefer ones that can fit onto modern axles and bearings, but maybe that is an unreasonable bias too… I think I’ll visit the factory, take a look and some advice. They ought to know. Part of my new policy of “getting out more”.

If your field work vehicle will be out getting wet a lot then stay away from wood. But for on-road work they will last forever with care, and are infinitely repairable.

Witmer’s can also set a sealed ball-bearing unit into one of their wheels if you ask for it, I’m pretty sure. You are lucky to live in the same state as them. I never got to visit, just sent instructions and received wheels through a third party. If you do go to Witmer’s, I hope you might consider giving a report and sharing some pictures.

[Andy Carson]

I looked up some old (circa 1919) information about wooden and steel wheels. They were comparing heavily built wide 36 inch diameter wheels. For the same weight of wheel, the steel wheels could support about 40% more weight than the wooden wheels. Suprizingly (at least to me) both wheels were nearly equal in thier resistance to lateral loading. They didn’t test shock loads. The authors conclusion was that for loads of less than 5 tons per wheel, wooden and steel wheels were comparable in practical strength. For greater loads (not of relevance to me) steel wheels were clearly a better choice.

[Author]

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