DAPNET Forums Archive › Forums › Equipment Category › Equipment › Wooden Box Bushings
- This topic has 3 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 13 years, 6 months ago by sickle hocks.
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- May 8, 2011 at 2:00 am #42699Ed ThayerParticipant
I have decided to replace the wooden box bushings on my newly acquired disc. I have never done this before and read a few other threads on ways to do it. I have taken several pictures and have posted a link to them below. For those of you have done this before, please add any info or thoughts.
I used ash, as it was available in 1.5” thickness and I had it in stock. I have read that maple is the preferred wood. I think the ash will work for me for a long time. My disc is a McCormick Deering and uses wooden bushings with holes for locating them in the castings and for oil lubrication. The wood was ripped to width and then the box was made and ripped on the table saw to the final dimension. I used a 2” drill bit to bore through the block. Two inch was used as it is the diameter of the bearing bore.
We built a small jig to hold the block in the drill press and keep it from moving. This worked very well. The drill bit was new and cut through the block very easily. This was a fun project and it was especially satisfying to save an old piece of farm equipment from the scrap yard and to be able to use it on the farm.
I still have to finish the dolly wheel assembly and will post some pic’s of it when it is done.
Ed
May 9, 2011 at 12:23 am #67235sickle hocksParticipantNice job Ed, it looks like they turned out well. I have half my disc put back together. Was about to take some photos for you, but yours turned out as well or better.
I like the way you did it. I turned mine round on the outside…drilling the inside hole was a pain afterwards, if I had had access to a good lathe and a set of forstner bits i think that would have been the way to go for the inside. Anyway i think they will work, they are a bit tight but will hopefully work in.
When I was a sailor I would have soaked something like this in raw linseed oil for a couple of weeks but it’s not going to happen this spring.
The tubes coming down from my grease nipples were absolutely clogged with gunk, it’s worth checking…you probably already have.
Ed, is your caster wheel just going to pivot freely or is it going to be linked to the draw bar like some of the tongue trucks were? I was just going to let mine pivot freely. Not sure how Andy has his set up..
murray
May 9, 2011 at 1:06 am #67234brigleParticipantLooks great they turned out well. I used maple but the ash will work just as good. About the grease tubes. My disc is a MD also. I put a reducer in the casting and put a grease zert in the reducer it workes great.
May 11, 2011 at 11:16 pm #67233Ed ThayerParticipantFinished the disc today. Mounted the seat, installed the new grease fittings in the hubs and mounted the disc in the new bushings.
Also welded up the dolley wheel arangement and greased the axle assembly.
Going to try it out this weekend.Added some more pics to the web album too.
Ed
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