[Donn Hewes]

Pat step by step meets Working for a purpose.

Plowboy, it has been a fun and interesting thread despite a little tension. for me it has helped to define the space we need to fill for those that want to join us in working with horses. That is a goal I am really interested in.

Pat step by step (my method?!) should help people avoid getting stuck. The purpose of the steps is not so you can check them off as completed but, rather to assist a teamster in seeing their relationship with the animal for what it is; and improving it were need be. Markers that when properly utilized will help inform the teamster of what the horse is ready for. The fact that some of us may not need a checklist doesn’t mean you are skipping steps. It just means you have developed a natural sense of this relationship, and secure the relationship without much conscious thought. I see this as training for teamsters as much as; if not more than, for horses.

Pat step by step should be guiding folks directly to hooking their animals. It should help avoid being “trapped in the round pen”. The first work to be done should be laid out before you catch the horse the first time. I have had Connie for two and a half weeks. I was away at a conference, I had a cold, I have a full time job, and today she skidded her first logs from the wood lot to the house for fire wood. I am not suggesting that is slow or fast, but that I knew the day she arrived what the first thing she would do in harness was. Knowing what I wanted her to do directed every moment of her training. I also took a lot of pictures. I hope I can post a few tonight.

Fifteen minutes in a rope halter doesn’t hurt a horse, or take away their ability to look to you as the leader or learn from you directly in challenging circumstances. If I came back and kept repeating the same skit day after day because I didn’t know what to do next, horses will quickly realize I don’t know what I am doing. Today was Connie’s first day in the woods, she started to wade off the trail, soon she was up to her waist in snow, she lay down, she looked at me as I moved a little from behind her, I gave her a second to compose herself, then she got up when I encouraged her. She stayed in the traces and was calm the whole time. I think these are the small occurrences that you are talking about Carl, that strength the trust between the animal and the person. Hopefully my steps would help get someone there who might not have all the experience to know exactly when a horse is ready for what.

[Donn Hewes]

Carl, If I knew how to high light a quote I would paste your opening sentence above. “You don’t use the method you use because you are in a hurry.” Plowboy correct me if I am wrong, But I don’t think you team of trainers would do much different if it had more time. Regardless. The point is you need a method that suits your temperament, your horses preparation, your ability to read when the horse is ready for more or less. I would argue that there is plenty of time to train a horse well; and in fact it is the fastest (and only) way to get a good working partner. To be clear, I think that with the horses Carl has chosen or raised for himself, and with the right Carl, His method is probably perfect for him and them. Same for Plowboy and his family and friends. Not because it is fast, because over time it has proven effective.

What is the point? Don’t judge a method on someone’s saying that this one is quick and this one is slow. Look for some thing that you are capable of. Keep it simple. Any method you use is time well spent, if you can focus on the animal. There is plenty of time to train horses and it goes by very quickly. I think we get a good turn out on these cold mornings! I have got three logs for Connie today! Donn

[Donn Hewes]

Hi Jason, Where in New York is Chad headed? Just curious. I moved to NY IN 1999 and think it is great. A lot of the old timers moan about the weather and the taxes, but they don’t realize these things exist every where. Rain for farming is good and land is still affordable. Tell him I said welcome and am located near Cortland, if I can ever be of help just let me know. Unfortunately no disk here unless he moves really close by! Donn

PS. Is he bringing a good Suffolk stud with him by any chance?

[Donn Hewes]

Hi Geoff, My apologies if I offended you, likewise anyone else. It is not really fair or accurate to put people in a “group”, when it is people I don’t know very well. I guess I think we agree in a lot of ways. What I think is needed is more specific training tools the new teamsters can use. We have focused on teaching the beginner, (whether that is you or not) how to drive, ie. hold the lines, haw is left and gee is right, whoa to stop. This would be enough if the horses were like cars, but they are not. We need to add to this basic beginning some tools to prepare the teamster for taking the lead. I am trying to develop that idea so when I try to help someone in the future that will be my set of tools. It is, and always will be, hard to put these actions into words, so much of the skills be sought are involve timing and awareness. These are hard to teach in person. Don’t let anyone here get to far under your saddle, let them know when they do. Donn

To answer just one of your questions, A horse should stand calmly for harnessing. This can be simple to achieve or it can be hard. Maybe you could start a new thread on just that one question. Sun coming up, better go feed em’

[Donn Hewes]

Hi all, I have been thinking a lot about my training methods. In coming to the methods I am using today to start a green horse I am thinking about there effectiveness on two groups that you might not expect. One is supposedly broke horses that don’t do exactly what we might wish in all situations and the other is green teamsters who are never quit sure how to get exactly what they want from the “broke” animals. I know this is an odd set of concerns for someone trying to start a perfectly good horse for their own use, but that is what I am doing.

Listen to the questions we get from Geoff, Highway, and others. I think even though their driving skills are still new, what folks lack to some extent is a sound relationship with the horses. The relationship I am talking about is one specifically suited to farm work. Training horses in some basic skills would insure that the horse and person recognize who is dominant, how we are dominant, and why we are dominant, before the driving starts. The teamster would learn what makes a horse move or stand; that when we are driving we are really leading. Physically we are behind the animals but mentally we must be in front. If my method of training can be applied to a “broke horse” by a green teamster I think it could achieve a lot of good. My goal is when someone wants to learn to drive and work with horses they should start to learn to train them at the same time. Not so they can train green horses but so they can establish a sound relationship with whatever horses they get.

We often hear the adage, every day you work with horses you are training them. My question is; who is training them? Some of my good friends are farming with horses and have told me they are to busy to learn to train horses, or inexperienced, better to let someone that knows what they are doing do the training. In the mean time they wonder why their horses do this, or that, or some other thing. I suggest they take the time to start learning some basic training skills. It will be time well spent.

Plowboy don’t get me wrong, I have seen some great horses started that way by caring teamsters that had the skill, experience, and confidence to know just what each colt was ready for. Sounds like fun.

I took some more pictures of Connie today, but the camera doesn’t connect to my computer. It will be a few days before I post them.

[Donn Hewes]

Hi Ed, Connie is doing great. I been gone a few days at the NOFA conference, and then came home with a cold, but I have been driving her up and down the driveway for a couple of days. My wife went on vacation with our camera or I would have posted some more pictures before now. Hopefully in the next few days I will catch everyone up on what I have done with her. How is your horse doing? Have you been driving him? Donn

[Donn Hewes]

Hi George, I have used 4 1/2 foot bars, 5 foot bars, now a 6 foot bar. There are several factors to consider as to which one you might want. As is often repeated when talking about mowers, how sweetly the machine is set up is so important to the draft. A perfect machine with sharp knives and perfect lead and timing with the knife just resting on the guards will help a lot regardless of the bar length. Having said that the six foot bar may slow some teams down when mowing a heavy first cutting. That will depend on the terrain, the size and condition of the horses, The stage and density of the crop also. On some days the 5 foot bar might mow less than the 6 foot, but it is probably a more versatile bar length. Halflingers may not mow quite as many acres or hours as a bigger team but they can work with a 5 foot bar. With a good mower and a 5 foot bar bigger teams should be able to work in relative comfort regardless of short up hills and down, or how thick the crop is. I love the six foot bar for clipping pasture and second cutting hay, but I have two mowers to chose from. Other folks with more experience with the six foot bar might say they have had no problems pulling it. Donn

[Donn Hewes]

Does anyone know of a book or video that shows the rope halter in use? Donn

[Donn Hewes]

Hi Robert, You don’t have to apologize, your questions are good. The rope halter has a series of knots that rest in strategic locations on the head. It is these knots that apply the “pressure”. You could find much more about how these work and different training that people are using them for. You have to remember it is just a tool. No mater what tool you want to use don’t let your focus shift from the animal to the tool. Some might say it is pressure and release for dummies. I am starting to encourage more and more people to think of them selves as trainers, even if only to improve their relationship with the horses or mules that they are already driving.

[Donn Hewes]

I hope you find someone who has done it, all though I doubt there are many. I have seen a few saddle horses that I say, “man, I would love to have a pair of those on a mower”. Find the right combo of level headed and stocky and it should work good. Hard to find 1400# perhaps. Donn

[Donn Hewes]

You said you were new to long ears but not to horse flesh. Have you been driving and working horses in harness or other? We all have our own definitions of what is broke and what is green broke, etc. For me a mule that is scared of humans is not broke at all. That relationship is the basis for all training. Good luck and go slow. No help on the video, unfortunately. Donn

[Donn Hewes]

Hi Jason and Robert, She is Baldur’s Constitution form Baldur Farm in Wisconsin. I can tell you the sire and dam too if you like. She will be spreading, clipping, mowing, raking, tedding, baling, plus firewood and snow plowing. My hay mowing an baling is done with a PTO cart and a four abreast hitch. I do very little plowing and cultivation; but I expect maybe a 1/2 acre this year.

Robert, I am glad you asked about yielding their head. For this horse it may make no difference at all. But you try and do that with a young donkey or mule and usually you will see something completely different. To them yielding to a slight asking pull would be an insult to their intelligence and independence. Eventually they will bend the neck your way, but still twist the head back the other, who wants a partner like that. To get them to stop spinning and start yielding, a little skill, some practice and patience. My hand not on the rope is encouraging her to stay, sometimes on her shoulder or over her back and touching the other side. When they spin try to maintain the light press and turn with them. When they stop try to use light tugs to just ask for the nose. Be patient. When they finally yield I switch hands so I can reward them on the forehead. If you look at the pictures there is no pressure when I touch her head. Try it on a horse that already gets it and work your way up to the tough donks. Why is it important? An animal that won’t yield to this likely won’t yield to a bit either. Soon they will be taking you back to the barn. If I taught this to a mule and it took me a few days to get it right, I would keep doing it with that mule as an exercise. Switch to an open bridle and lines, no harness yet. Do the same exercise on both sides and start to throw in a little driving. Got to go to work, Jobs sure get in the way. Donn

[Donn Hewes]

Hi Ed, When I pick up the feet with the rope I am also giving her a verbal command, “pick it up” in my case. Picking up the hoofs with the rope this way is a good way to start with one that doesn’t want their hoofs messed with (that’s not Connie – She didn’t mind a bit). It is safe to stand at their front shoulder and pick up a hind foot. She will learn to pick them up just for the asking by using a lighter and lighter touch. The next thing I did in that session, which my wife didn’t take any pictures of (said the light wasn’t right), was pick up all four feet the old fashion way. Slap each one a few times on the bottom and put it down. Now I could trim this horse with out even tying her up. Donn

[Donn Hewes]

highway, There might be a Halflinger in the back ground but the two with their heads together are the Suffolk mare (all red), and the Belgian mare (blonde mane). Some say they think there is a little Halflinger in the Belgian mare – but I don’t like to talk about it. D

[Donn Hewes]

Yes, putting the head down to the ground while in harness, hooked with a partner, to an implement, is not a good idea. Simple reason is it leads to wanting to take a step, which should not be allowed. This can also lead to tangling lines, etc. Pretty hard to keep them from eating standing hay if it is under their nose, though. The simple check rein is from bit to bit and is dropped over one hames. Be sure to adjust the length so the animal can work freely. I have friends that don’t have a check rein on any over their horses and it is the first thing I put on bridle. Donn

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