[LStone]

Hi Jen,

I dug this old thread up. I use the same ring through the buckle idea as well.

http://www.draftanimalpower.com/showthread.php?t=2023

[LStone]

@Demented Donkey Dame 27467 wrote:

I guess one has to get their feet wet before they can go swimming…

Unless you dive in head first, then the last thing wet is your feet. There is only one rule. If you do what you feel, have fun and be safe doing it. I think you probably knew the animals enough to know their, and your limitations or you wouldn’t have attempted it. First time or not you did a great job here. If you or your donkeys were nervous about it then taking the picture from the rear was a good choice in covering that up. But they look realxed to me. Take care.

Larry

[LStone]

@Mark Cowdrey 27392 wrote:

http://www.ezfolk.com/lyrics/qrst/r/rye-whiskey/rye-whiskey.html
😀

So much for making lemonade out of lemons, but Andy would that be an option? Good luck man, and everyone else.

Larry

[LStone]

Hi Pebbles,
Here is a link to Meader Supply
http://www.meadersupply.com/Publish/products_measurement.html
Once at that page under “harness info” there is a “click link” to a customer letter that indicates in good detail how to measure for collar size.

I think, and they suggest that hames and pads should be 2 sizes larger than the collar size. With an adjustable collar that would be two sizes larger than it’s largest size. So if your 20″-22″ collar is correct that would indicate a 24 inch hames and collar by their recomendation. That is one thing about the WWW that there is tons of information to go through and at times can be daunting. But take your time and don’t be afraid to ask questions on this board. It is always good if you can return your mistakes.

LStone

[LStone]

Hi guys,
I run two of them and have for a few years now. Confronted with growing horses, and lighter loads imposed on younger animals. I have had a time really keeping on top of optimum adjustments and for my purposes I think I am doing okay. I re-read this atricle. I have read it several times and viewed Les’ video many times as well. I think I get the concepts of it and I have no major disagreement with either resource from what I have seen first hand and I think it delivers what it advertises. Mitch I think the article addresses a lot of your examples and I happen to agree with the concerns you stated. I don’t really notice any weight issues, but I think your major point is that if there is no pole then the benifits of the harness are minimized and I agree.

You may remember though that I am in the market for those old fangled Jockey yoke hooks that are pointing down as opposed to the inside. My filly caught her lower jaw on one last summer. So I think that is still a major drawback in its use being as there are two times the potential for trouble with these newer hooks that were sold on my harnesses. I do have a question regarding the 31 inches of the pole cap though. I have not been very sucessful with being able to adjust the harness to get the pole cap to float at 31 inches. It seems to me that to get the weight off the collar and to float period it has to be higher than that. I might be missing something here, maybe my market straps from collar to yoke are way too short or better yet should be taken off to adjust to 31 inches. There was also a thread where I think Don was trying to deal with it on a three abreast. Not sure if he ever worked that out but I think I made a choice for a versitle harness overall and that is very important to me. So as long as you know what you’re dealing with going in I don’t see a problem with jumping onto them.

[LStone]

Ah ha, I guess using chains vs a neck yoke that flexibility would do the trick with the draft. That explains a few things. Thanks for that information Ronnie. Good to have.

Larry

[LStone]

Hi Rick. I had a learning opportunity about this sort of thing last weekend. I remember also that Jason Rutledge described in a thread posting how he did this but haven’t chased down that thread for reference recently. I don’t want to be misleading so anybody please correct me if it is appropriate.

I am familiarizing myself with a unicorn recently and I hitch a chain and single tree to the end of the pole generally. I was talking with someone who is familiar with multiple hitches last weekend and it seems that if you hitch to the end of a team pole your not really pulling, you’re playing; and though this is done, its usually for exibition. If your’e really interested in using the lead team or third horse effectively to move the load I think I remember correctly, that JasonR said he runs a chain from the load hitch point under the forecart up the pole and through the neck yoke ring. to a single/double tree on the lead horse/team. I found a YouTube video of his doing this also but it was a team.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JRWcJKHOzsI&NR=1

Jason’s Recent “Axeman casting video” didn’t get in close enough for me to see how they rigged those forecarts pulling that monster tree; but maybe he could describe the technique he used for that. That was a work of art and I appreciated watching it.

[LStone]

Same advice here too George. Rule of thumb is valid but I think if the collar pad is slightly smaller than recommended it wouldn’t impact anything on the horse unless your collar rocks or is too big. If it is too small it is just not “padding” some number of inches down the sides to under the throat. I would think if the pad extends further than the tugs your good.

Larry

[LStone]

I was ground driving my team on the roads at home. Somebody once said to me “nice view isn’t it”? I responded “yeah, but you have to really pay attention and be on your toes when it changes”. Have a great day out there today in the sunshine. In New England anyway I wish I could get out there today. But my day is tomorrow and it will certainly rain.

[LStone]

Hey JAC,

Probably the later. I don’t think there is much to worry about here, and timing is key when it comes to that. When it’s time to go it’s time to go. I have worked with a few mares that I noticed would pee as soon as they were turned in to a stall from working. and my mare never leaks in harness so I guess I’m lucky too. Maybe it has something to do with the stance and the britchen. Don’t know for sure.

Larry

[LStone]

Now what? Personal opinion is that things happen. They are the team you have and I would keep working with them. Don’t know the extent of their training but they are young still. Can you trust them? Trusting them is up to you, certainly not now, but the real problem here is them not accepting and respecting you and quite possibly they don’t trust you either. I don’t think all is lost though. How long have you had them, a few weeks? Are you expecting to much too soon? Give it time. You will probably be able to assert leadership and gain their respect when you put enough time and repetitions into them. Bad behavior shouldn’t be excused or tolerated, but… Are you giving up on them? Keep up investing in them, build on what you know and the three of you should be fine.

[LStone]

Here is a quick tip that I found helped me with similar experiences. When you are driving, particularly from the ground it is easy for the horse to change directions on you. I learned that if I drove with a nice line pressure and kept the lines low so as to “bracket” the horse’s butt with the lines. This will help to increase line pressure in the opposite direction if it decides to change course on you. You should still anticipate but the action of the horse but will almost automatically initiate the corective action for you and you simply have to follow through with it.

[LStone]

I use three of them barefoot in the Granite State. Don’t work them for a living but, I use them enough. For the hobbyist I would think you could get a way with it but a hard user I would think would have a different opinion.

[LStone]

Thanks guys I’m checking all this this stuff out.

[LStone]

Thanks sickle hocks I’ll have to check that out.

[Author]

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