[Rod]

Very good essay and on the mark for the things we discuss on DAP. Thanks for bringing it to our attention.

[Rod]

[IMG]http://C:Documents and SettingsOwnerMy DocumentsMy Pictures2008_07_24[/IMG] This is a wagon I just (almost ) finished. The base gear was an old hay wagon I bought for $50 about 30 years ago. We shortened the frame 3′ welded on the stake pockets, front crash bar, modified the tongue for the horse pole and added the removable seat and friction brakes. It weighs about 1000 Lbs. and my halfinger team pulls it up some steep grades ok. It will give you an idea what a modified hay wagon would look like. I plan to haul hay and people with it, plus other stuff.
OOps, I guess the picture diden’t work, so I put it in the photo gallery under equipment. Hope it helps.

[Rod]

Be sure the wheel you pick out does not say decorative. There are good wooden wheels around and good advice from wheel builders. I know there are lots of choices and axle combinations. For safety and durability and considering all the work and material that will go into the wagon I would talk to the folks at Witmer Coach Shop In NH PA or some one similar for some sound guidance. They sell axles also which means you can build your frame yourself from wood or steel.
There is a person in Putney VT that is selling off a collection of old wooden wheel wagon frames with wheels. I can give you the e-mail if you want. Might be just what you are looking for and the prices have been very reasonable.

[Rod]

If it were me I would stick with wood wheels or small auto types. The 300 lb load capacity does not account for bumps, twists and other non-raidial shock or off center loadings which can happen on curbs, rocks, potholes etc. I think that type wheel is most suited to two wheel fun carts.

I sent more info by PM check that out also.

[Rod]

I think I would be a little leary of those wheels on the wagon in the picture. Seem kind of light duty for that wagon especially if it gets any kind of a load in it. Note that the wagon is new, I wonder what the wheels will look like after some heavy use.
Northern tool has an assortment of wheels, axels, brakes and other useful parts to build running gears. I have also seen some good used stuff on ebay and also craigs list.

[Rod]

Terminology I am not familiar with, overshot. Would be neat if you had a photo of one in action.

Why wouldn’t you just pick the load up with the hay on it and dump it in the wagon? I am assuming the buck rake is on a tractor loader arms.

[Rod]

Actually the truck wheel solution to this particular problem is the easiest because the mower I have (which is not ready to go to work yet as I still am repairing it) does not have a tongue but putting my existing wheel on it allows me to use my existing pole which fits all my other equipment as well.

I have had “D” ring harnesses on order for a couple of weeks now not just because of this problem but because I am convinced they work better for other uses and will help here as well. Les Barton’s video is great and really helps understand how these harnesses work and how they reduce the vibration and neck load.

I believe my Halflingers are capable of doing the amount of mowing I have with out a problem. They are quite strong, capable, well trained and when I get them in shape should do fine either way.

I do not like all the accompanying controversy but do appreciate the underlying advice posted throughout this thread. I admit I need the advice of experience because I have not had the opportunity to learn by doing in this particular area. I guess we all have areas where we have training, abilities and experience. It’s great when we can help others with what we have learned.

[Rod]

I was wondering about that. Lynn Millers mower book and the no. 7 manual shows that rod going to the place where the evener hooks below the pole and via. a spring. This arrangement it looks like it pulls on the end of the cutter bar through a lever and a spring loaded evener attachment. I still have the spring setup on the part of the pole that was on the mower. Do you think a rod direct from the point on the cutter bar to the pole will be sufficient or do I need to mess with trying to make a spring setup work like the original.

[Rod]

Well the mower tongue was already cut off when I bought it and I had the wheel with the receiver part on it. The adapter was easy to make so I think I will try it and see. Being new to all this driving stuff and a engineer by training I like to try doing different things and like my wife says I build myself out of every problem. But you know engineers have a tendency is to complicate simple things while trying to make them work better, look at our modern automobiles or tractors (great while they work..). Anyway thanks for all the interesting comments.

[Rod]

Does anyone know the reason why the old fashioned loose hay wagons had sides which sloped outward instead of straight up?

[Rod]

I Figured it out I think. This is another picture from a little closer. The red bracket will be bolted to the mower pole. The reason it’s taller than the pole dimension is so I can adjust the pole height at the wheel. The wheel tracks the horses direction because the pole steers the wheel. You can see the hole for the pin to attach the wheel mechanism to the mower bracket. The pin is not in place, just slid in for the photo opp. Let me know if you want anything else by way of photos.

[Rod]

Hi Mark

The dolly wheel was fixed onto a homemade forecart I picked up somewhere. We took it off and added the male reciever part, the hinge was on it we just beefed it up a little. Then we put female recievers on our equipment and added a male reciever part to the pole. That way we can use the equipment with the wheel or direct with the same pole for all the carts etc.
I will get you some more detailed photos and send them direct so that I don’t clutter up the photo gallery with them. That is unless I can figure out how to get the photos from my computer into a URL address so I can post them with the message.

[Rod]

This is what I came up with for a truck on my no. 7 McD mower. I use this dolly wheel on a forecart and on a wagon. It just plugs into a reciever on each piece and my pole plugs into the reciever on the top. I can’t figure out how to get a photo up here so I will add it to the photo gallery.

[Rod]

What old, square type balers would be considered lighter in weight and suitable for my Halflinger team to pull? Assumes a powered forcart (1000# plus) or an engine conversion on the baler. I have had JD 14t and 24 T models in the past and ran them with a 29 hp Ford 2000 (with a wagon on the back). Would one of these old models be a good choice or is there better and lighter units that can be suggested?

[Rod]

Good photos

[Author]

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