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What are you going to be using it for? Plan on taking it down the blacktop? Moving hay? People?
May 13, 2015 at 12:46 pm in reply to: Sourcing 14 3/4" (15") diameter disc with 7/8" square bore axle #85566greyParticipantI had good luck phoning Agri-Supply (800-345-0169). Couldn’t find what I needed in their catalog but the friendly person on the phone found it for me. I requested the wrong size bore, however, and ended up having to shim the square axle hole with a short section of angle-iron but it worked great, got me back in action, and the replacement discs have proven to be made of much sterner stuff than what was on there originally.
For the trucks, I can’t help you. Took me two years to find a used set for my own disc harrow, at auction.
greyParticipantLike Carl, I like non-jointed mouthpieces. I have gotten the best results with them.
I still sometimes bring out a single-jointed or three-piece mouthpiece bit, particularly when I am working with a new horse and trying to reach a greater understanding with him. I always eventually go back to the solid mouthpiece, however. I have a few bits that have a solid mouthpiece with a bit of an arch shape – a mullen-mouth. Some horses like it better, perhaps because its shape allows more room for the tongue.
I have some snaffles with solid mouthpieces and some curb bits with solid mouthpieces. I use them both, but I do use the curb bits more often. I seldom opt to use the leverage on a curb bit, but instead hook straight on and use the bit like a snaffle. However, the leverage is there should I choose to adjust my lines and take advantage of it.
Unfortunately, bitting can be a trial-and-error thing. Your hands, your methods, the horses’ temperaments, the shape of their mouths… Really, we can only tell you what has worked for us. I don’t believe there is a “best bit” out there but my favorite is the military elbow bit with a straight mouth. I like this one better than the Liverpool because my fidgety horse can’t get ahold of the bit shanks when they are swept back like this, but it is essentially the same bit.
greyParticipantIt can be an aid but I have seen the neckyoke be counterproductive in those situations by making the green horse jumpy when it whacks his leg. Is there a good substitute that won’t have that particular deleterious effect?
greyParticipantI don’t like to use a neckyoke when ground driving a green team. It usually whacks them on their forelegs and some horses take real offense at that. Maybe bridle the green horse over a halter and attach a jockey stick from the hame ring of the broke horse to the halter ring of the green horse.
greyParticipantBTW, both of those images are from Samson’s catalog.
greyParticipantWear leathers save a lot of wear and tear on straps. They ride between the strap and the hardware. The kind with the loop is particularly nice. If you spring for the chafes that go behind buckles, that can add a lot to the lifespan of your harness as well.
I imagine that different climates age leather differently. Here, I don’t really worry about oiling or cleaning my harness much. The rain usually does the cleaning for me. Maybe once a year I’ll clean it up and use a cheap natural bristle paintbrush (“chip brush”) to apply oil where it looks dry.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.greyParticipantRolled britchen, AKA folded britchen. A way of constructing the britchen body so the edges of the piece are not cut leather but folded. Helps prevent chafing.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.greyParticipantYou will usually be miles ahead to buy new leather harness, versus buying that old stuff at auction. Seldom will a second-hand harness turn out to be a good investment. I’m not saying the good deals aren’t out there; just that they are few and far between.
I go to Samson for all my leather harness needs. I have a bio parade harness for special occasions but anytime I expect my horses to really sweat, I dress them in leather from Samson.
Some upgrades to consider: rolled britchen body, rolled bellyband, wear leathers inside all hardware, stainless or brass hardware (no rust to eat your leather).
I have to clarify that I do not have a D-ring harness so I cannot speak to that specifically. I usea Western belly-backer harness.
greyParticipantIf the overseas operations would stop throwing lawn chairs, hubcaps and table lamps into the melting pots, we wouldn’t have these problems. Wish they’d move production back to the US and make good hardware.
greyParticipantIf you have a soaking boot, I’d soak it in a strong hot epsom salts solution to help keep it draining. You want it to heal from the inside out, rather than scab over on the outside before the inside has healed.
greyParticipantMy process for teaching hobbling is pretty involved and would take a long while to type up. I’m not saying I don’t want to do it… just that I might be reinventing the wheel unnecessarily.
There are some YouTube videos that show you various methods for teaching hobbling. There are a few different ways to go about it. Before you start, however, you have to think about your goal in hobble-breaking. My goal is to have a horse that will stand still when hobbled. Lots of other folks use chain-and-cuff hobbles just to slow a horse down while he is grazing. Your goal will determine your methods. I don’t want to encourage the horse to move around testing his hobbles and find a comfortable range of motion. I want him to test his hobbles (his decision to do so) and decide that it is easier to just stand still.
After the initial cotton rope desensitization portion, I use a figure-8 leather hobble and hobble him pretty close. Later, I put a web halter on the horse and eventually tie his head to his hobbled front feet to reinforce that if he tries to move around, he’s going to yank on himself. Other people cluck and smooch at their hobbled horse to encourage it to move around and find its range of motion. I don’t want to do that because I feel it conflicts with what he needs to learn when pulling a heavy load. I’m worried that I might make a horse that is easily discouraged in harness. Whether that is a valid concern or not, I don’t know for certain, but that’s how I approach hobbles.
I like my horses to accept all sorts of restraint, including a Scotch hobble and a pastern strap. I think it just makes them safer and easier to rescue in the event of a disaster, whether it is major or minor. But when I tell him to go, I want him to put his all into it.
greyParticipantI forgot to mention that the big problem that arises from your horses getting cockeyed is that the cross-check buckle can get sucked forward through the hame ring. I have stops at my cross-check buckles to prevent that from happening, but then they come up hard against the lines and start pulling on their mouths.
greyParticipantI use a stout and wide leather figure-8 hobble on their front cannons. I introduce this piece of equipment during the early stages of groundwork and harnessing, in the corral, as part of my overall “accept restraint” training. I rely on it to help teach the horse not to fight if they are trapped or entangled. I consider it a life skill that any horse needs to know. It just happens to carry over very usefully to horses in harness.
If I’ve got a green horse in my team and I need to do something to the equipment or harness that puts me in a potentially dangerous spot, I will hobble the green horse but not the seasoned horses, since I am right there.
If I need to be away from the lines and out of sight of the team, I will hobble both horses in a team and leave them hitched to the wagon or equipment, with the lines tied to the standard or in some similar fashion.
Potential problems include the very important fact that horses CAN run with their forelegs hobbled. I try very hard not to ever let a horse learn this fact, but any packer will tell you that most horses can gallop quite handily with his forelegs hobbled. I have not had a horse try to leave while hobbled and hitched, but I’m sure we can all envision what sort of mess could result if a hobbled team tried to take off while hitched. Best-case scenario is that they go down in a heap sooner rather than later.
I have had one badly spoilt horse gallop across the round pen with his front legs hobbled, and aim for the fence with the intent of going through. This is the only horse I’ve been forced to train without the benefit of being able to teach him to tie beforehand, so I’ve come to the conclusion that training to tie really ought to come before training to hobble. This particular horse still has not learned to tie, is not hobble-broke, and is still a work in progress. The only job I trust him on currently is harrowing. Lots and lots of harrowing. He is going to have to learn to tie before he can progress any farther in his training. But that’s another matter.
If there are flies or gnats, the horses can’t stamp their front legs to chase the pests away. They can fidget themselves cockeyed because they can shuffle backwards a few inches at a time but they don’t typically come forward at all. So if one is being bothered by bugs and the other isn’t, you’ll come back and find them cockeyed.
And then there’s user error. Once, I had them hobbled while hitched to a wagon for a lunch break. After lunch, my brain was somewhere else and I climbed aboard and was just about to gather the lines and ask them to go when someone else pointed out that I still had my “parking brake” on. That stuck with me for a while. I don’t think anything bad would have happened if I had asked them to move while hobbled. I think their heads would have come up and they might have given a hop before I remembered the hobbles. Not the end of the world but also not great for team morale.
- This reply was modified 9 years, 9 months ago by grey.
greyParticipantWhen I need a parking brake, I hobble. I don’t like to tie their heads while bridled because mine will rub if I’m not there to yelp at them and the blinders and blinder stays will take a beating. I’m a big believer in hobble-breaking anyhow. It has served me well in various situations.
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