[Rod]

I have a fence tester that shows current as well as voltage and shows the current direction. It is really very handy for determining where shorts are in it fence as you just follow the current arrow until the current changes and you know you just passed the short by. Sometimes shorts are hard to find, maybe in a piece of underground wire or a failed insulator etc.
I agree however about the ground. This is critical to a good fence. I have one of my chargers grounded to a metal culvert that is always wet and the other one with ground rods in a swampy area 400 feet from the charger location. In both cases I run the ground wire back to the charger on one of my non-hot fence wires.

[Rod]

Here’s a labor saving idea that I wonder if anyone has worked out.

If you are like me you have some bothersome weeds that need spot
spraying a few times each year. I periodically shoulder my 5 gallon
(whew) spray tank with pump handle and hike around my pastures of fence
lines and spot spray the bull thistles and multi-flora rose brush.
Usually I can’t carry enough in one load so I make multiple trips back
to the barn to mix and reload.

I was thinking that I could put two sprayers on a pack saddle, one on
each side with the pump handle on the nigh side where I would be
walking. The tanks would be connected hydraulically under the animal
with a hose so the the liquid level went down evenly keeping the load
balanced. Then it would be a walk in the park so to speak. All I would
need is to hold the spray wand and occasionally pump the pressure back
up as Sam and I walked our route and did this nasty job. What do you
think?

I think I would need two connecting hoses actually, one for the liquid and a second to equalize the pressure chambers but thats a detail that could be worked out.

[Rod]

Hi Carl, I thought about one of those DR bush hogs but wondered about the potential for forward kicking, sticks/stones etc. at the beasts, (including the driver)?

[Rod]

Jen try this link, I think this may be the one, at least it has the same name.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7600741309&ih=017&category=106365&ssPageName=STORE:PROMOBOX:NEWLIST#LIST

[Rod]

I Like it, the whole concept and have been spending a lot of time thinking about how to down scale some common and not so common applications so I can use my team of Standard Donkeys to help me out.
One idea I have for one Donkey is to carry my parts and tools when I do fence work and maintaince. I run high tensile electric fence and periodically patrol the lines some of which are in the woods and accessible only on foot. I don’t mind the walking but carrying all I might need to fix or repair the fences is a chore. To do this with Sam my bigger donk I am going to put a pack saddle on him to carry my stuff.
I would love to see some ideas along this line for light weight equipment adapted to small animal power applications. Might try the cultivator thing and put away the hoe!@

[Rod]

Welcome, nice web site.

[Rod]

Great photo, that really helps me a lot.

[Rod]

BTW where did you purchase that ring. Mabe I can buy some in the size I need.

[Rod]

Thanks, that is a great help. Appreciate the effort to that. I don’t need the actual piece the photo is sufficient.
I assume the removable part is so the back traces can be exchanged easily?

[Rod]

Carl
Thank you for the tip on the harness construction, I will pass it on to whomever I get to make the harness.

George
Thank you for the lead on the harness maker. I called them and they can do it except they do not have any small rings. The rings they have are for heavy drafts and I was a little confused as she described what she needed for a ring. Something about two rings together. It would help me if I could see what the ring looked like as I can have them made in a size suitable for my small animals. I have ordered the tape on the “d” ring harness and hopefully can see one there. If anyone out there can describe the ring or rings needed so I can get the picture that will help also. She suggested a 2.5″ diameter for a 1.5″ tug size.
The harness maker said she is willing and able to make them for me but I would need to supply the rings.

[Rod]

Great photo, thanks

[Rod]

I would like to see some pictures of your Donkeys in harness. Can you post them on this site?

[Rod]

I don’t think there is any issue with longevity for the frame on mine. It’s all galvanized and inside the cover, should last indefinitely subject to being hit with the tractor or a hurricane. The manufacturer was very good with technical advice and extra parts such as the clamps I needed to attach the wood sides and end.

As far as would I do it again, probably not. I have built two wooden barns since I put the fabric one up at less cost and are better structures. However for a quick barn, clear of columns and with lots of head room they fill a need. Especially I would think as the barn gets bigger than mine where the construction of wooden barns get expensive fast.

[Rod]

Please don’t mention hurricanes, I lost one barn already this year and don’t want to think about what a hurricane would do to my barn inventory.

[Rod]

Hi Patrick

I have a 27×40 one which is 4 years old. I bought it from a company in Canada, Omni Structures. It has steel trusses not single poles and a 7 year cover. It took 3 of us one day to put the frame up on the prepared base and another half day to add the covering. The model I bought has 4′ vertical sides which I covered with t-111 plywood and I filled in one end With a wood frame and siding and doors.

One thing I like include the light in the barn that comes through the cover. It was fast and easy to erect and has a pretty substantial frame, one which I think would take a sheet metal roof covering easily. The truss is the key to the strength.

It sheds snow off easily except what happened this year, the snow piled up at the bottom and built up over the roof covering. It got pretty heavy and when I was able to get at the sides with my Bobcat I shoveled out the lower snow pile so the stuff that had accumulated on the fabric could slide off.

You have to design around the issue of rain getting under the barn and onto your floor. What happens is the snow piles up at the sides of the barn, then when it rains the rain runs down the sides and is trapped by the snow dam and can outlet over the floor. Mine does and I have wet floors at times.

At one time I considered moving it to another location on the farm. I even considered a mass manpower operation where a large contingent of men would each pick up a part of the side and we would walk it to the new spot. Mabe it’s a good thing that I didn’t try it.

[Author]

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