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wally b
ParticipantWorkhorseworkshops has a draft horse teaching program. Check it out:
workhorsworkshops.com
or on facebookParticipantSounds like you figured it out, but I think the usual cause of a horse not going when pulling is that they are feeling too much bit pressure and are confused as to the command. This is especially true in young horses that arnt accustomed to carrying a bit. I have seen this problem several times. The driver is actually holding the horse back. The horse starts, stops or even backs up. A bit strap can clarify this situation.
You can make offset eveners to load you team differently. There are photos of an example of offs eveners, bit straps in use on my Facebook page:
workhorseworkshops.com click on the ‘F”
Wally
ParticipantI posted some photos of foot ropes on my Facebook page which you can access thru my website:
workhorseworkshops.com
Participant–If I can move, I’m dead.
should say: If I CAN’T move I’m dead.
Another time I use this foot rope commonly, is a horse that won’t stand for whatever reason. Say the horse won’t stand when it is facing near the hitch rail–it keeps starting, stepping forward, pawing etc. trying to get back to the rail to get set loose. You can hold them with the bit which is painful to the horse, drive them in circles, turn them away and head back away, back them up, work them down, and I have tried all of these and more with varying success.
But if they do this behavior and you just hold up their foot and release when they are quiet while not manipulating the bit–this works much faster and is more effective.
I have actually gone to much lighter bitting and even bit straps to keep out of the horse’s mouth in favor of controlling a horses movement by controlling it’s feet.ParticipantHi Donn
I like your interpretation of the situation and think you probably have it well in hand.I would like to add that if the runaway prospect team mate is bomb proof a buck back or tie in works well.But the best training for a horse to behave and not run is to control its movement. Using foot ropes in a humane way like a good teamster would humanely use a bit is a great way to go.
I have observed and worked with Don Yerian form the B Bar ranch Suffolks using this technique and have used it on some of my own horses. He has started over 2000 horses in his lifetime and his technique is incredible.
If the horse gets to jiggy you home his foot a little…thus controlling his movement. When he settles, then you release. If he runs you can hold up one foot and he won’t run too far or fast on three legs–as soon as he stops you give it back. If he paws at the hitch rail–hold up his foot. He soon learns that you are controlling his movement, like in the round pen and this is a deep genetic truth of the horse that he always listens to–If I can move, I’m dead. This guy behind me can control my movement (humanely) so He must be the leader and I had better listen to him.
I have never seen a more incredible trainer than Don and this group of techniques he uses. Even in the Amish country.
It would be a great technique to try on our mule. email me for photos
ParticipantOur farm hosts several educational programs.
Visit our web site:
workhorseworkshops.com
walt
ParticipantContact Anni Siri for the all in one. She has adds in Rural Heritage
One horse machinery has a nice tool carrier for one horse as well. Google them.
Wally B
ParticipantThat could be stringhalt.
wally
Participantwebsite : workhorseworkshops.com
- This reply was modified 8 years, 2 months ago by
wally b.
ParticipantYou can buy those taper topped nuts at any good fastener supply shop. The cutter bar is designed to have the carnage bolt head on the underside of the cutter bar.
wally
ParticipantHere is our G Haw tool carrier in use in oregon. I have a offset tongue so it can be used with one horse in the path and on the beds next to the edges of high tunnels.
It works good for 1-4 rows per 3 ft bed and is fully adjustable for width, height and has two battery operated hydraulic lift tool bars. Zero turn radius and quick attach implements without tools.
If someone wanted to draw the plans to scale I would publish them in one of the draft horse publications.Wally B
Workhorseworkshops.com
OregonParticipantI would seperate her from her mother for an extended amount of time like months and really seperate them. Then I would go to the very basics. Start with things she can do and that you can do with 90% assurance that you are going to succeed. You need to get your mind and body language in a place that will help you convey the message that you arn’t scared. Her mother needs to be so far away that you might need to board her away for a while.
I had a horse like this that I got for free–spoiled, kicker, biter, but had some attributes that i thought might work out. She had turned out to be a fantastic horse with alot of training.
I am willing to speak to to you if you want by phone and try and help. To set up a time email me: walt@workhorseworkshops.com. I am in Oregon.
Wally
ParticipantStephen
I seem to have lost your email. If you email me i will send you some photos of the tool carrier cultivating multirows in the same beds and you can post them.
Wally
ParticipantI will post some photos on the my Facebook page. Cant figure out and don’t have the time to figure it out here.
Wally
Participanttrying to upload again
- This reply was modified 8 years, 2 months ago by
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