hardpan99

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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 23 total)
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  • in reply to: No.7 mower tapered pins/bolts #90324
    hardpan99
    Participant

    It turns out that D.A.Hochstetler of Topeka, IN makes these for Master Equipment to sell. I’m not sure why they make the pins with the short threads…..something about them being used on the No.9?? I’m not aware of the 9 using tapered bolts but I’m less familiar with that mower. Anyway I contacted them directly and they made a version with the correct longer thread for me. The total length of the part should be 3-7/8″ with the threaded portion being 7/8″ of that. So, if you need F43 for a No.7 contact D.A. Hochstetler directly.

    in reply to: No.7 mower tapered pins/bolts #90306
    hardpan99
    Participant

    Actually the threaded portion on the parts from Master are too short. I’m making a drawing of the original to have a shop make one locally.

    in reply to: No.7 mower tapered pins/bolts #90289
    hardpan99
    Participant

    Thanks Jay. Turns out Master Equipment stocks an aftermarket equivalent part. I just ordered a few.

    in reply to: Challenges with A hybrid Model #90138
    hardpan99
    Participant

    I tried farming with horses only for a 2 acre market garden for 4 years. I started with one tractor and ended up with 3 tractors and no horses. The following difficulties I faced were the reasons:

    Many, many times I was faced with the choice of getting it done with horses or spending time with my family. Occasionally a horse would be lame just when I needed them most. Too many rocks made plowing with the tractor so much more efficient. Many jobs on this farm are 15 min tasks which don’t really justify harnessing up the team. Even if you do get a team of horses that doesn’t mean they will work in your system….then you’re still hunting for horses while work needs to get done. I would probably still keep a team for some tasks but the fact that a decent team of horses now costs more than a decent older tractor is a real show stopper from a business point of view. Most people don’t properly care for hooves but should and if you can’t do it yourself its a significant cost. All that being said, I think working with horses is great if it works for you.

    • This reply was modified 7 years, 2 months ago by hardpan99.
    in reply to: #7 mower, pioneer plow and cultivator #89649
    hardpan99
    Participant

    I know of a guy that had a MH parked in the woods near his house. Not sure if its the same model. Its in Rome NY. I can check if you’re interested.

    in reply to: #7 mower, pioneer plow and cultivator #89646
    hardpan99
    Participant

    I apologize for not responding. I didn’t have the “notify me of reply” box checked! Anyway, the mower is not for sale anymore.

    in reply to: Cultivator comparisons #88499
    hardpan99
    Participant

    Mike,

    I take it you weren’t able to purchase a finger weeder at the auction? I have never used one but it looks like you would use it like a field cultivator or drag harrow? I think my neighbor has one on a junk pile. I should see if its salvageable.

    in reply to: Cultivator comparisons #88468
    hardpan99
    Participant

    You are correct, the old cultivators do steer the gangs and the wheels simultaneously.

    in reply to: In Row Spacing/ Measurement #87507
    hardpan99
    Participant

    I use a McD New 4 cultivator with 1700-1800lb horses. My standard row spacing is 36″ and I skip a row for squash and tomatoes. 42″ rows are a little less stressful to cultivate but the yield/acre increases greatly going to 36″ rows. So what if they stomp on a plant here and there? They stomped on plants when I used 42″ rows too. I think the most important thing to prevent the animals from stepping on plants (other than being a good teamster) is to mark your rows absolutely straight. I mark rows with a tractor. 42″ rows also allowed me to leave row covers on and cultivate the next row. With 36″ I need to remove the row covers to cultivate the adjacent rows. My rig has the 6-shovel gangs (as opposed to the more common 8) and I use 6″ sweeps all the time. I think shields are a must for cultivating young vegetables and that’s why I never end up using my walking cultivator. I think you just need to start somewhere and make changes as you find what works for you.

    in reply to: Mower cutter bar bolt issue #87418
    hardpan99
    Participant

    That’s interesting. I just assumed the originals always had the nuts on top.

    in reply to: Mower cutter bar bolt issue #87405
    hardpan99
    Participant

    I guess you’re probably right. Its a non-problem type of problem.

    in reply to: #7 Mower Wheel Removal #87364
    hardpan99
    Participant

    Thanks. That’s a great idea with the headless bolt. I wanted to pull the axle right out but the tapered pin and bolt are seized to the main gear assembly. Have you successfully gotten those out on a difficult unit before?
    -David

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    in reply to: IHC Mower Oil Seal part numbers De-mystified! #87348
    hardpan99
    Participant

    It took finding the skf seals master interchange document online. Its a massive pdf file and the only one listing the old IHF parts. For those who are looking for any old seal (Case, John Deere, etc.), it might be in there too.

    SKF Seals Master Interchange – SKF.com

    in reply to: Looking for single for logging #87133
    hardpan99
    Participant

    Ok good for you. I saw that your post was from October, but thought I’d ask. I just have a team, but one of them really is better as a single logging horse. I’ve used him for a few years and managed ok with row crops. In the woods though his path doesn’t need to be quite as precise. He’s the kind of horse that would go right to a butcher shop if I took him to an auction. 19-20 years old with Sweeney and bad teeth! He’s been good to me So I’ll hang on to him until he dies or I find a special home for him.

    in reply to: Looking for single for logging #87126
    hardpan99
    Participant

    Did you find your single?

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 23 total)