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Brad Johnson
ParticipantHas the mare been sold?
-BradParticipantGeorge-
What to say here about new saws…I have two relatively new 562 XP saws, and the old one already needs a short block put in ($350 repair with parts and labor), so it is now my parts saw. The newer 562 still runs well, but the parts on it are just poor. The plastic and metal materials are very poor quality, and I have had to put lots of replacement parts into that saw. My yard saw is a 2000 Jonsered 2162 which is a bit heavy and starts hard but is very reliable. I am not sure where I am headed when I need my next saw, the choices seem to leave a lot to be desired. The 562 is light, powerful and well balanced but not well made for commercial use…
-BradParticipantJay-
The total length of the plug bolt is much less than 8″, only 3.5 ” I think, but I will measure it for you. I have a paper copy of Les’ plans, what is your snail mail address?
-BradParticipantJay-
So happy to see you and Zeke back at it. Are you going to do the workshop again with your students? I really enjoyed that and would be happy to work with you and your kids again. Best wishes for a good spring!
-BradApril 21, 2015 at 9:27 am in reply to: New Beat Farm seeking summer Apprentices on our Horsepowered farm in Knox, Maine #85411ParticipantWow,this sounds great! Too bad I don’t have more time to spend up there with you guys. How is Pete doing?
-BradParticipantI use a plug style yoke exclusively for woods and fieldwork. It really works well and is super durable. I built my own based on Les Barden’s design and it is sweet. I was able to trim about 16″ off the pole so my turning radius is much reduced, and if the horses heads clear an obstacle the pole clears as well – no more hitting small stems with the end of the pole while turning. I can send you the design details if you want, and the total cost is about $75 if you have a welder (or even less if you have scrap metal around the shop). I think it is a far superior design to anything else I have used, including the standard three piece ring yoke or a one piece yoke.
-BradParticipantI am happy to say that we have filled our apprenticeship for this summer season. We will be offering this opportunity again in the fall, and if anyone wants to get in touch with me in the mean time please do so.
-BradParticipantStephen-
I had a mare that could not be shod due to while line. I ordered a pair of studded boots to try, but they did not look like they would stay on worth a lick. I would let the hooves grow out a bit and put shoes on if you need them.
-BradParticipantDonn-
Got the new hook today, and it looks super. I will put it to use and get you some feedback but I think it will a significant improvement over the original. Thanks!
-BradParticipantCould not agree more with you Rick. I do think it is imperative to have a machine on the landing, as you can lose 20% or more of your overall time monkeying with logs and top wood on the landing. And, for some stems, it is handy to have the winch. In terms of cost, my team costs me $2-3 a day, depending on feed costs. That includes one vet visit a year for teeth and shots, and shoeing supplies (I do my own). And the horses are super fun to work with!
-BradParticipantI also use no line driving from time to time, relying on voice only. On really steep ground when working on the ground, this is a great way to work. When the snow is deep it is much easier to walk in front and have the horse follow rather than having the single horse pull you up the hill thru the snow. I find that it works really well, saving me some energy and saving the horse the strain of having me tugging on the lines as I struggle to keep up walking behind.
-BradParticipantLooks good Donn. Send me one when you have a chance and I will put it to use!
-BradParticipantGeorge-
What are you using for your poles? Hornbeam, round or squared is pretty bombproof and easy to come by…
-BradParticipantYes, I did. Thanks! 802-345-7488
ParticipantI thought I would add my one and a half cents to this thread on harness. I used leather for a number of years on a farm in Maine, and I really like it for harness. However, one winter I broke a tug and our local harness shop was closed for vacation, so I ordered an inexpensive nylon harness. That was 10 years ago and that harness is still in use at the farm in Maine. I now log full time with a team and use biothane d-ring harness exclusively. I will never go back to leather, for a number of reasons. First, it requires absolutely no daily care at all – no cleaning, oiling, nothing. Leather is wonderful stuff but it takes commitment to keep it in good condition. Second, biothane is light to put on and take off, and when you do it almost every day that matters. Also, you can hang it up soaking wet and when it freezes overnight it is still functional in the morning. Third, biothane is easy to adjust, punch holes, and stitch with no special tools beyond a speedy stitcher, propane torch, and large nail. And, biothane is way cheaper to buy if you want to purchase new harness. I have no issues with rubbing or chafing, which is a common complaint with nylon and biothane harness.
I would second the comment above about carefully measuring what length you want on your front tugs, particularly if you are buying from an Amish shop – they don’t use d-ring and almost always make them too long. However, this is easy to adjust with the tools mentioned above.
-Brad- AuthorPosts